Taping & mudding · Calgary, AB

Drywall taping and mudding in Calgary

Tape bedded over every joint, then coat after coat of compound, each one wider and thinner, so seams and screw heads vanish once the walls are painted.

Get a Free Estimate

Free estimate · No obligation

Contractor holding a mud pan and running a taping knife up a freshly taped drywall seam near an inside corner

Common requests

  • Newly hung drywall ready for finishing
  • Seams showing through paint
  • Bubbling or peeling tape
  • Outside corners needing new bead
  • Board hung by a homeowner or another trade
  • Patches and additions that need blending in
Coats
Usually a bedding coat plus two finish coats, dried in between.
Materials
Paper or mesh tape, corner bead, drying or setting-type compound.
Priced by
Linear feet of joints, corners, ceiling height and the finish level wanted.

In one paragraph

Taping and mudding turns hung drywall sheets into one continuous surface. Tape is embedded in joint compound over every seam and inside corner, corner bead goes on outside corners, and then two or more wider, thinner coats of compound cover the tape and screws. Each coat dries before the next. Done well, nothing shows through the paint.

The process

Coat by coat

The sequence is simple. The skill is in how flat and how wide each coat goes on, and in waiting for it to dry.

  1. Step 1: Bed the tape

    A layer of compound on the joint, tape pressed into it and wiped down firmly so no air is trapped behind. Inside corners get folded paper tape; outside corners get bead.

    Tape that is not fully bedded is what bubbles or peels later.

  2. Step 2: Fill coat

    Once dry, a wider coat covers the tape and fills the taper along the factory edges of the sheets. Screw heads get their second coat.

  3. Step 3: Finish coat

    A thin, wide coat feathered out well past the joint so the eye cannot find where it starts and stops. Butt joints are feathered widest of all.

  4. Step 4: Sand and check

    Lightly sanded smooth, then checked with a light held flat against the wall to catch ridges and dips before primer.

Materials

Tape and compound

Drying compound

Pre-mixed compound in a bucket, which hardens as its water evaporates. Easy to sand and forgiving to work with, but each coat needs time to dry, which depends on thickness, temperature and humidity.

Setting compound

A powder mixed with water that hardens by chemical reaction in a set time. Used for bedding tape, filling deep gaps and speeding up repairs. Harder to sand, so it is usually covered with a drying-type finish coat.

Where each tape is commonly used
Tape or beadCommon use
Paper tapeCommon useFlat joints and inside corners. Strong once bedded.
Fibreglass mesh tapeCommon usePatches and some flat joints, usually with setting compound.
Metal corner beadCommon useOutside corners that take knocks.
Paper-faced beadCommon useOutside corners; resists edge cracking well.
Flexible or off-angle tapeCommon useVaulted ceilings, angles and bulkheads.

Why seams show

Common taping problems, and what causes them

Most visible seams trace back to one of these. They are also the usual trouble spots with DIY finishing.

  • A ridge down the joint

    Coats not feathered wide enough, or tape sitting proud of the surface.

  • Bubbles or blisters in the tape

    Not enough compound under the tape, or it was wiped too dry.

  • Seam visible only after paint

    Compound and paper absorbing paint differently. Primer fixes it.

  • Dips over screws

    Compound shrank because it was coated or sanded before it was dry.

  • Hairline cracks in corners

    Too much compound in an inside corner, or movement at the joint.

  • Sanding scratches and fuzzy paper

    Over-sanding through the compound into the paper face.

Started a DIY taping job that is not going well?

That is a common request. Tell the contractor what has been done so far and they can take it from there.

In Calgary

Drying time and the season

Calgary’s dry air generally helps drying-type compound dry, but a cold, unheated space slows it right down, and a very hot, dry room can dry the surface of a thick coat before the inside. Basements and additions are often the spaces where this matters, because the heat may not be fully running yet. Steady, moderate heat and some air movement give the most predictable results.

Once the coats are done, the next step is sanding and finishing to the right level for how the room will be painted and lit.

Common questions

Taping and mudding questions

What is the difference between taping and mudding?
Taping is embedding paper or mesh tape over the joints in a first coat of joint compound. Mudding is the general term for applying the compound, including the later coats that cover the tape and screw heads and are feathered out. In practice the two are done together as one stage.
How many coats of mud does drywall need?
Typically three coats over taped joints: the bedding coat that holds the tape, then two wider finish coats. Screw heads get at least three coats too. Walls finished to a higher standard, or joints that were uneven, may need more, or a skim coat over the whole surface.
Paper tape or mesh tape?
Both are used. Paper tape is strong and the usual choice for inside corners and most flat joints. Self-adhesive mesh is convenient, particularly for patches, but is normally paired with a setting-type compound because it is less resistant to cracking with drying-type compound. The contractor will choose based on the joint.
Can you finish drywall that someone else hung?
Yes, taping and finishing is often done as a separate job, for example after a homeowner or another trade has hung the board. The contractor will check the hanging first: gaps, overdriven screws or joints in awkward places add finishing time and are worth knowing about before you get a price.
Why can I see the seams after painting?
Usually one of four things: joints not feathered wide enough so they form a ridge, compound that shrank because it was not dry between coats, tape that was not fully bedded and has bubbled, or no primer so the compound and paper absorbed paint differently. Each has a different fix.

Free, no-obligation estimate

Get a free taping and mudding estimate

Tell the contractor what stage the drywall is at and what finish you are aiming for.

Useful to include

  • Is the board hung already, and by whom?
  • Roughly how many rooms or square feet
  • Ceiling heights and any bulkheads or arches
  • Finish: ready for paint, or ready for tile

Get a free drywall estimate

About two minutes. Fields marked * are required.

1Your project

What is damaged or being built, roughly how big, which rooms, and whether a leak was involved.

2Your details

At least one of phone or email. A call or text is usually the quickest way to book a look at the job.

Free and no obligation. The price is set by the contractor after seeing the job.